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No 3. Okinawa Shaved Ice – Zenzai

When I think of a full course meal in Okinawa, this is what the menu would look like:

  • Appetizer: Muzuku seaweed, Sea Grapes, and sashimi salad
  • Soup: Okinawa Style Miso Soup
  • Main: Okinawa Soba, Taco Rice, Aguu Pork Shabu Shabu
  • Dessert: Ice Zenzai or Sea Salt Ice cream

Okinawa used to be a tiny island with few natural resources. So why did China, which was a super empire 400 years ago, and Japan want the Ryukyu island (Okinawa was an independent country called Ryukyu) so much? How did the Ryukyu kingdom make a fortune from maritime trade? What were they trading?

Okinawa Shaved Ice Zenzai. A summer treat.
Home made Okinawa Zenzai

Okinawa used to be a tiny island with few natural resources. So why did China, which was a super empire 400 years ago, and Japan want the Ryukyu island (Okinawa was an independent country called Ryukyu) so much? How did the Ryukyu kingdom make a fortune from maritime trade? What were they trading?

The answer lies at the bottom of the hills. In the fields that capture a lot of sunlight and moisture from the never-ending sea breeze, there is something precious from those days, both to the Chinese and Japanese royalty – sugar cane.

Okinawa black sugar is super sweet, much sweeter than anything the royal family in China and Japan ever tasted. For example, chestnut used to be a premium sweet treat in Japan, only presented as one of the most valuable gifts from the groom’s family to the bride’s family at a wedding.

Do you consider chestnut a sweet treat these days?

Fresh Okinawa shaved ice with tropical fruit
Traditional Okinawa shaved ice (right) and summer special shaved ice with fresh fruit (left)

Zenzai is the #1 most popular dessert for all ages in Okinawa. Traditionally served warm, it is made with red beans, black sugar syrup, and rice cake. If you order a Zenzai in mainland Japan or some family restaurants in Okinawa, you will get a warm Zenzai.

Okinawa Zenzai means shaved ice with Zenzai on top. They are sold in many places, from convenience stores and roadside ice cream stands to five-star hotels. If you want to try the most authentic Okinawa Zenzai, here is a secret to finding it: the best Zenzai is made by shaved ice stands near schools and parks, much better than any five-star hotel.

Zenzai is soul food, grandma’s comfort food. Okinawans love Zenzai because it is the taste of their childhood. Making Zenzai is time-consuming work, but it is inexpensive. For most Okinawan kids, they eat Zenzai on the way back from school or when they play in the park during the weekend.

Next time you see a Zenzai stand in the park, join the gang. Enjoy the best Okinawan dessert under a banyan tree on a hot summer day.

How do you know someone is selling Zenzai? Look for the shaped ice flag or the word ぜんざい.

Shaved ice flag in Japan

This is item No. 3 on the Okinawa Bucket List. What is Okinawa Bucket List?

The Okinawa Bucket List has 100+ to-dos, must-try, must-eat adventures on the island of Okinawa. We don’t ensure any business but rather share the stories behind each item on the list with you. You can download the free, printable Okinawa Bucket List here by email ✉️ or by joining our Facebook group with 14,000+ Okinawa explorers 👈

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